Sri Lanka - Changing face of Buddhism

Buddhism stands upright as a religion of peace. Non-voilence or ahimsa is one of the basic tenets of the religion. The serenity on Buddha's face, sitting in meditation, can disarm even the most voilent of creatures. I had a similar impression about Buddhism, alas the picture perfect has been smudged with slurs.

Burma and Sri Lanka, two countries in South Asia, that share a common history of Buddhism are today center of what might be termed as 'Buddhist Terror'. Burma has had a history of Mujahideen insurgency in the west border adjoining Bangladesh, prompting the persecution of Rohingya Muslims, many of whom have fled to neighboring countries. Ashin Wirathu, the doe faced Buddhist monk, has been portrayed as the face of Buddhist Terror by Time magazine. So much so that even Dalai Lama issued an appeal to his Burma brethren to desist from making attacks on Rohingyas.

Sri Lanka has had no direct threat from Muslims but still a feeling of religious intolerance simmers. Earlier it was the Tamils, now after the rebels have been defeated, its the turn of the Moors. Bodu Bala Sena (BBS), a Sinhalese Buddhist Nationalist has organized various campaigns against burqas, halal meat and end of mosque building financed by Middle East. BBS was founded by, guess what, monks! The most alarming fact here is the patronage and instigation by Buddhist monks.

The effects of this prosecution which is seen as being supported by Buddhist clergy were recently seen in the blasts at Maha Bodhi temple at Bodh Gaya. I fail to understand, why smoke belches in India when the fires are raging elsewhere!

Passing by
While other stuff is cheaper, newspapers are mighty expensive in Sri Lanka. Sunday edition of Sri Lanka Mirror cost me Sri Lankan rupees 60 (~ 30 INR). So, once I bought the newspaper, I made sure I read every single page of it :-)

Previous Entries:
Sri Lanka - Introduction
Sri Lanka - Cleanliness
Sri Lanka - Religion
Sri Lanka - History of Buddhism

Sri Lanka - History of Buddhism

Buddhism was brought into Sri Lanka around 2400 years ago by the great Indian king Asoka. He sent his son Mahinda to Sri Lanka to help spread the message of Buddha. Asoka's conversion to Buddhism after the battle of Kalinga is another interesting story, perhaps for another time. At that time, a sapling of the Bodhi Tree under which Buddha had meditated was also brought to Sri Lanka. The tree is venerated in Sri Lanka and is the site of a great pilgrimage for Sri Lankans.

Bodhi Tree at Anuradhapura

Sri Lanka has the longest continuous history of Buddhism across all Buddhist countries. India, where Buddhism originated and was once the state religion of the grand Mauryan empire, couldn't sustain itself. Although Hindu kings patronized Buddhism, a heretic Shaiva king chopped the Bodhi tree. The University at Nalanda, a treasure chest of knowledge, burnt for 3 months after being set on fire by Muslim invaders who also destroyed numerous stupas and viharas. Once it lost the support of the kings, Buddhism would find it difficult to survive.

Soon Buddhism faced an identity crisis. Vaishanavism abandoned the animal sacrifices that Buddhism abhorred in Brahminism and started practicing vegetarianism. Shaivites disregarded the caste-hierarchy inherent in scriptures. Overall, ideas were freely borrowed from Buddhism ranging from the Sangha (the Buddhist monastic order) to Tantrism. Shankaracharya stole the wind from Buddhism's sail and not much later, Buddha was one of the avatars of Vishnu in India. Its funny to note that Vishnu is one of the four guardians of Buddhist temple in Sri Lanka!

Princess Hemamali carrying Buddha's tooth in her hair

In Sri Lanka too, the Sinhala kings had to seek refuge from the invaders from South India - most specifically the mighty Cholas. Cholas under Raja Raja I and his son Rajendra I, creators of the magnificent Brihadeswara temple at Thanjavur, destroyed the city of Anuradhapura and established a new capital at Polonnaruwa. Eventually, they were overthrown by Vijaybahu I and Buddhism was reinstated as the state religion. Buddhism continued to florish under Parakramabahu the Great. After his death, the kingdom was again brutally sacked by Kalinga Magha who established the Kingdom of Jaffna in the north. Jaffna remained unconquered until the arrival of Portuguese in 16th century.

Sri Lanka has had a tumultuous political history. The claim to the throne was laid by the no less than the Cholas, Pandyas, Sinhalas, Kalingas and even a king from far away Kannauj! The capital was shifted from one city to another by one king after being destroyed by another. However, the light of Buddhism was kept burning with the support of ordained monks from Burma and the Buddhist clergy was cleansed time and again.

Crowd outside the Sacred Tooth Temple 

It was believed that the holder of Sacred tooth relic had the right to the throne of the kingdom. Even today Esara Perahara (festival of the tooth) is celebrated with great fervour in July/August at Kandy. It is attended by a large number of people who flock to see the relic. It is a very colorful sight with fire-dances and colorfully decorated elephants. I was fortunate enough to be in Kandy on the day , the Perahara started. However crowd, fire dances and elephants galore in India and hold no special interest for me therefore I moved on to Colombo.

Crowds lined up for the Perahara

Although, I originally intended to write about changing face of Buddhism in Sri Lanka in this post, I see that I have wandered too much into the history so I would put a stop here. I would write about that in the next post.

Passing By
Due to the Perahara, the Pizza Hut outlet near the Sacred Tooth temple was closed for dine-in. Instead, it had been converted to a gallery where one could book a seat and watch the Perahara pass by. The guy tried to sell me a ticket for 4000 Sri Lankan Rupees. When I told him that I was leaving the city he reduced it to 2000! I had to convince him that I was really leaving!!! And then he lightened up, beamed a smile and said, "You must be from Punjab".

Pizza Hut converted into a gallery (chairs can be seen)

Previous Entries:
Sri Lanka - Introduction
Sri Lanka - Cleanliness
Sri Lanka - Religion